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The land
of a thousand towers and glacers, the land of centenarians, the last Middle
Ages of Europe… these are just some of numerous other poetic fitting notions
to refer to the Upper Svaneti, the high-mountain region in the northwest
of Georgia. Bound by the rugged and up to five thousand metres high mountain
chains in the narrow valley of the Inguri River, this cultural isle has
survived in its hundreds-year-long isolation. The historical roots of
Svaneti's inhabitants stem supposedly from a Sumerian tribe…
The life
of the Svans is full of privation, which makes them a tough people. They
live on a barren land covered by snow about half a year long, and burned
by the sun during the hot summer. Their villages are fortified and guarded
by the mighty towers, that are over a thousand years old. United by a
spoken language without a script, the Svans were already known to the
ancient Greeks. Strabo, an ancient geographer, wrote about 2000 years
ago: " The Soans, the ihnabitants of the Caucasian heights, reign over
all the neighbouring peoples, and are generally said to be the toughest
and most daring men. They have a king and a council of 300 representatives
and can marshal troops of 200,000 warriors…"
The christianisation
of Svaneti began in the 6th century. In the 11th century the numerous
small Georgian princedoms including that of Svaneti were united into the
Georgian Kingdom, that soon experienced its Golden Age. Svaneti developed
into one of the leading handycraft cultural centers of Georgia, flourishing
at that time. The legendary and canonized queen Tamar, who ruled in Georgia
from 1184 to 1213 and assured the country a leading position in the area
between the Black and the Caspian Sea, searched for her victorious army's
future generals as well as for her personal bodyguards exceptionally among
the Svans. She also resided every year in their homeland.
In the 15th
century the former superpower of the United Georgian Kingdom collapsed
and some of Svaneti's parts submitted to the influence of the neighbourng
migrelian and kolkhisian princes. In Zemo Svaneti the Dadeshkeliani sovereign
attempted to assert his claims to the ruling position. However, in the
eastern part of this regioan the "hunters" for power confronted a severe
resistance of the local defenders. Ubatono - "without sovereigns" - the
Free Svaneti spread from the ridge called Bali up to the beginnings of
the river Inguri in the Glacers of the Mount Shkhara. From the village
Latali up to the settlements of Ushguli the proud warriors defended their
independence and preserved their ancient clan order.
The territory
of the modern Georgian province Svaneti is just a part of a once very
powerful ancient kingdom. It consists of two separate administrative districts
divided by the glaciated and up to four thousand metres high Svanetian
mountain ridge. On the south, in the valley of the river Zchenitzkali,
lies the Kwemo (low) Svaneti, with the centre Lentechi. On the north,
enclosed by the five tousannd meter high Great Caucasus and the Svanetian
mountain chains, lies the Zemo (upper) Svaneti, with the administative
centre Mestia. Neither the Khasars nor the Arabs, Persians or the Mongolese
hordes, who constantly fought for the influence on the Georgian territory
during the country's history and systematically flooded this since the
4th century Christian land with blood, could ever invade the Upper Svaneti.
The proud and invincible Svanetian warriors knew how to defend their natural
fort. Until the military invasion of the Russian army at the end of the
19th century, the Svans had never been under a stranger's rule!
Until the
collapse of the Soviet Union, with Georgia being one of ist constituent
republics (1921-1991), this Caucasian country had been referred to as
European. Georgia has been connected with Europe in many aspects: historically,
culturally, politically. The Georgian people consider themselves as Europeans
according to their cultural values. However, during the last two decades
there has been a tendency to refer to Georgia as a Northwest Asian country
bordering with Europe. Georgians call their county "the balcony of Europe"
to stress the connection of their country with Europe.
The Upper
Svaneti can also be called the "roof of Europe". Two thirds of the settlements
lie over 1.500 metres above sea level. Some of them are even situated
as high as over 2.000 metres above sea level. The fabulous village Ushguli
(about 2.200 m) is the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe.
Besides, there is no other church on the European continent that is situated
higher than the church of Limkheri that nearly reaches the mark of 2.500
metres above sea and is situated above the village of Latali.
The unique
architecture of the Upper Svaneti, owing to its authentic and the middle-ages-like
character, has been included in the UNESCO's catalogue of the World Cultural
Heritage since 1996.
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